We go to beauty salons, enjoy the head massages, and have our hair washed, conditioned, dried and styled. More often than not, we take our beauticians’ word for what hair products should be used. Sometimes we sit under dryers for deep conditioning, and other times we’re napping in the neck rest of a sink with a shower cap on. We’re using the same conditioner as other clients who have come and left the shop, even if our hair texture may not be an exact match. And we go home to use our sister’s, cousin’s, roommate’s or mother’s hair conditioner if we run out of our own.

But have you ever stopped to ask why you’re using a particular brand, and how often should you condition your hair? Should it be different from your social circle? Here, we’ll try to help you understand the conditioning sweet spot that will work for you and your hair type.

Getting Familiar With Your Hair Type Before Conditioning

Every hair texture is different. While some people wash and dry their hair daily or every couple of days, this is not ideal for thicker and coarser hair types. It will usually dry out the hair and result in breakage. The goal of conditioner is to make hair softer, shinier, make combing easier, and to re-add moisturizer after chemical treatments from perming and coloring hair. Conditioning is advised after each wash.

But the amount of times to wash and condition hair will directly depend on two factors: your hair type and confirming that the product you use actually matches that hair type. The American Academy of Dermatology Association suggests that people with curly, dry, thick and textured hair types will want to wait until their hair actually gets to the point of being dirty or oily enough to need to be washed (i.e., every two to three weeks).

Common signs that the hair is not being washed (and conditioned) enough is dandruff flakes. And while black women with thicker hair types will oil their scalp to minimize dryness, heavier oils (ex. petrolatum and mineral oils) will also work against regular shampooing and conditioning. Why? While petroleum oil (i.e., Vaseline) can be rubbed onto skin to get rid of the ash, that same kind of thick, oily texture does not work the same in hair. Instead of it massaging into hair to avoid dryness, it just sits on top of thicker hair, making too much hair fall out while combing and resulting in limp curls.

Skip the chunky Blue Magic hair and scalp “conditioner” that sits on top of the head and choose washout conditioners or leave-in conditioners that actually moisturize the scalp. Coconut oils, shea butter and other liquid-like oils that can actually reach the scalp underneath the hair are a good sign that the moisturizer is being used as intended.

Cosmetic shampoo and conditioner bottles in a beauty salon — Cottonbro Studio

Taking the Conditioner Instructions Seriously

Like opening the package of a do-it-yourself project, paper instructions have been thrown to the side so much that manufacturers now shorten them to one-pagers or only allow users to find instructions online. Look at shampoo and conditioner containers now, and the instructions are matching this same technique. Although the advertising, logos and images are huge, depending on the brand, the instructions are in tiny font and read like an afterthought on the back of the bottle.

Before buying a new conditioner or using your current conditioner again, stop and actually look at the container. What exactly does it say on the front and the back? Did you buy the conditioner because it was an autumn color (i.e. browns and golds) with an afro-wearing Black woman on the front? Or, did you buy it because it actually matches what your hair really looks like?

If you don’t have dandruff shampoo on hand, did you know that conditioner infused with argan oil can prevent dandruff and an itchy scalp? Are you making sure to use your fingertips instead of your nails to massage the conditioner into your scalp? Or, are you just dumping a handful on the top of your hair, with it never making its way to your actual scalp? Are you finger combing the conditioner to the tips of your hair? Are you using a wide-toothed comb to detangle your hair while conditioning?

Reading and following the instructions on the bottle instead of quickly rubbing and rinsing will considerably help with improving the washing and conditioning process. By taking your time and washing and conditioning your hair right the first time, you may skip out on over-conditioning or under-conditioning.

Knowing When To Reevaluate Your Conditioner Shopping

If at all possible, immediately stop using a hair conditioner once you see that the “promise” on the package is not happening with your hair. Scalp irritation, excess hair falling out on combs and brushes, greasiness and dryness are all signs to try a new conditioner. And while buying in bulk may feel like it’s saving money down the line, shampoos and conditioners do expire. If you find that you’ve been using the same conditioner, and it used to work but is not working now, it may be that you’re using an old bottle too long.

Unfortunately, the FDA does not require expiration dates on shampoo bottles and conditioner bottles. There is a workaround cosmetic calculator to get an idea of when it’s time to restock. Choose the brand, and type in the numbers next to the QR code (i.e., batch code or lot number) to narrow down the general shelf life.

The batch codes may not look the same for every product. They may be a mix of the following:

Alphanumeric combinations (e.g., AB12CD, 123XYZ)
Coded information (e.g., plant code, production line, shift)
Date-based codes (e.g., YYMMDD, MMDDYY)
Sequential numbers (e.g., 12345, ABC123)
Julian dates for calendar days and years

Before buying a conditioner, use your phone to get an idea of how long those conditioner bottles have been sitting on beauty supply and grocery store shelves. That clearance sale on beauty supply items may not be doing you any favors besides getting these expired conditioners and shampoos out of the owners’ inventory.

Shopping Smart, Conditioning Smarter

By shopping for conditioner that are still within their “best used” date, using conditioners that are the best for your hair type, and conditioning hair at a weekly rate that matches your hair type, hair care results should improve overall. There may be some trial and error. If trying something new, choose travel-sized containers to see the results. And once you have a hair conditioner regimen nailed down, you’ll know how often you should condition your hair and enjoy the results.

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